Firewall wiring

October 27th, 2007

Today I did some more firewall-forward wiring. For all the "big" wires, I'm using double-wall heatshrink tubing over the crimp terminals. This stuff is like normal heatshrink, plus an extra layer of hot-melt glue inside. It provides a lot of extra mechanical stability, which I like.

I ran a 10 gauge wire from the always-hot side of the master contactor to the battery bus fuse block:

A short jumper wire connects the battery to the hot side of the E-bus relay. Note the use of all-metal hardware… no nylon nuts forward of the firewall.

Some more short little jumpers connect the switched side of the E-bus relay to the two midi fuseholders, shown here with fuses installed.

At the bottom of the firewall, I installed the ANL fuses and finished connecting everything together with copper bus bars. I ended up removing the rubber terminal boots I had on here before, as they were pretty unwieldy (as in hard to scrunch out of the way while tightening the mounting hardware).

I decided to wait on mounting the big fuseblocks inside the cockpit until I get my radio stack installed, so I can figure out where to run the big wires without having them interfere with the radio trays.

Firewall electrical stuff

October 21st, 2007

This weekend's big accomplishment was getting the remainder of the major electrical components mounted on the firewall:

Down by the starter contactor, I installed bases for ANL current limiters. One is where the main alternator B-lead will attach, and the other will feed the main electrical bus through the firewall. They both take power from the upstream side of the starter contactor via copper bus bars. I'll insulate this area with rubber terminal boots when I bolt down the fuses.

This 6-position fuseblock comprises my always-hot battery bus. It will be fed by a short 10 AWG wire directly from the hot side of the master contactor, and will power things like the hourmeter, the electronic ignition, and so forth. Just above the fuseblock is the relay that energizes the E-bus. By the way, these are all automotive-grade components, so I don't have any qualms about mounting them on the hot side of the firewall.

Above the E-bus relay are two holders for Littelfuse Midi fuses, with I think are the same as a Bussman AMI fuse. These do the same job as their cousins down below, they're just smaller… one will connect to the standby alternator B-lead, and the other will feed the E-bus through the firewall. Since they are OEM automotive components these fuse blocks have 5mm studs, which may end up being the only metric hardware on the whole airplane.

All this stuff is attached to the firewall with nutplates – lots of nutplates. I fabricated a whole series of doublers to mount everything, which is what consumed the majority of my building effort this weekend. Then Mary, who is awesome, took time off from studying to help me rivet them to the firewall, even though she has exams this week, because that's how awesome she is.

Seriously, did I mention she is awesome?

Firewall doublers

October 14th, 2007

I was occupied doing various other things for most of the weekend, so I didn't get much done on the airplane. I did manage to make another little doubler for the firewall, to secure a cable clamp next to the master contactor. One of the rivets ties into the diagonal firewall stiffener:

Mary was nice enough to come help me rivet on the two doublers that needed to be installed. We back riveted them, with her doing the bucking on the outside and me taking many trips down between the rudder pedals to drive the shop heads:

Here's the same doubler riveted in place. It supports a nutplate that anchors the lower end of the positive battery cable near where it connects to the master contactor.

Up above, I riveted another nutplate to the firewall stiffener to capture the other end of the cable. Now the cable is mechanically secured by the clamps, and there isn't any stress on the terminals. The battery cable is from B&C, by the way.

We also riveted on the doubler for the fuel fitting:

Even though I moved it a bit, the fuel hose is still going to be quite close to the starter contactor, though apparently that's normal. This photo exaggerates the effect – there's really a half-inch of clearance between the two components. I'll just insulate and clamp everything really well so there won't be any interference issues.

You can also see in the photo above how I insulated the copper bar between the master and starter contactors with some rubber terminal boots.

I just had time to start sketching where I want to put the remaining firewall-mounted electrical components before I had to call it quits.

Further fuel plumbing

October 11th, 2007

The Andair fuel valve has mounting ears that are pre-drilled for nutplates. Actually, they're even pre-countersunk. Cool.

I fabricated the line that goes from the pressure relief valve (small blue cylinder) back to the tee on the fuel valve.

Then I made the line that comes out of the other leg of the fuel valve's tee fitting, runs under the pump bracket, and connects to the input of the fuel filter. The 180-degree bender I borrowed from John made this pretty easy.

Here's an interesting little gotcha I found… if you have an engine with horizontal induction, the doubler for the fuel fitting that goes through the firewall interferes with the starter contactor. Maybe I'm the first person to install both an engine and a battery on their airplane? Anyway, some people have worked around this problem by installing the doubler on the inside of the fuselage (example here). I ended up just making a bigger doubler that fits completely underneath the starter contactor's mounting foot.

Fuel pump plumbing

October 7th, 2007

I still need a few more electrical components before I can start mounting things on the firewall, so I decided to work on the electric fuel pump installation. The high pressure electric fuel pump sits on the floor just in front of the fuel selector, so the first thing you do is lop off a chunk of the center cabin cover and then cut a notch in it:

You also have to take a big bite out of the fuel selector housing:

The fuel pump bracket is attached to the center cabin floor stiffeners with screws and nutplates. Here I've drilled the mounting holes. Note the orientation of the pump bracket – it looks like it's supposed go the other way around, but this way is actually correct. I actually had it in backwards at first so now I have a few extra lightening holes in my bracket. No big deal.

Next I built the lightweight aluminum housing that covers the fuel pump and associated plumbing. I primed it before riveting since it will get a coat of paint later.

Then I drilled the mounting holes that attach the pump housing to the other items (with more screws and nutplates).

The upward-pointing flanges on the pump bracket get some rubber material put on them to protect the pump and filter:

The fuel pump and manifold and the fuel filter are secured to the bracket with hose clamps. The piece of aluminum tubing shown in this photo is already installed when you receive the pump, but there are more lines you have to fabricate and install yourself. Here's a diagram I found that helps a little to explain what all the various components are there for.

I had no real problems fabricating the first line, from the output of the filter (large gold cylinder) to the tee on the input to the check valve (small gold cylinder). The remaining lines all connect to other parts of the airplane, so I'll have to fabricate those with the pump/filter installed in the fuselage.

You need to install a tee at the output of the fuel selector, for fuel feed and pressure return. In order to get the fitting clocked in the right direction, I had to use copious amounts of fuel lube on the threads and whack on it with a big wrench. I almost thought I was going to twist it off, but I got it pointed the right way. I don't think it's ever coming out again, though.

While I had the fuel selector housing out, I riveted this little angle onto the top plate in order to cover up the gap that most RV's have there (see example in photo above). You probably won't ever be able to actually see this from inside the airplane, but whatever.

I wanted to see how my Classic Aero carpet fit around the fuel pump housing – answer, perfectly. When you order the carpet they ask you if you have fuel injection or not, and they obviously know exactly how big to make the cutout to go around the pump housing.

Next I need to decide where to mount the fuel flow sensor, which will be a bit of a pain.