Aux battery access

November 4th, 2007

I decided I didn't want to have to loosen a billion screws and take up an entire floor panel just to service the aux battery I mounted under the baggage floor, so I measured out a small cover plate that will make access a little easier.

I cut out the corners with a hole saw:

Then with snips and files I finished cutting out the hole in the floor. Here it is being test-fitted… I can get the aux battery in and out through here with no problems.

I made a cover plate out of some scrap 0.032" and match-drilled and dimpled it to fit the existing screw holes. It's plenty strong, and now I have less than a dozen screws to undo to get at the aux battery.

The cover plate isn't flush with the floor, but since this area will have carpet over it you'll never know the difference. I did use my edge roller on the plate before I dimpled it, which helps it sit down nicely against the floor.

Fancy Crimper

November 4th, 2007

I'm a sucker for tools. The latest unnecessary but way cool addition to my toolbox is called, simply, The Terminal Tool. It's designed for crimping electrical terminals onto really big wires, like this 6 AWG stuff:

There are ways that you can solder big terminals like this, and there are cheaper impact crimpers that you beat on with a hammer, but this one claims to actually shrink the terminal barrel down onto the wire. Here it is in action:

Sure enough, the diameter of the terminal barrel has been reduced until it's just a little bigger than the wire insulation. I did a pull test, and that terminal is going nowhere. Awesome.

Here it is with heat-shrink applied. I guess I didn't need to take a picture of this.

Even though I don't have things quite far enough along to run this big wire yet, I wanted to play with my new toy. And it was cool.

Firewall passthrough

November 4th, 2007

I used my Greenlee punch to put a 1 1/8" hole in the upper starboard corner of the firewall:

…through which I then installed a firewall passthrough fitting from SafeAir. Read this article from Bob Nuckolls for the background on why you'd want to bring wires through the firewall in this way. I also squirted some Biotherm firestop sealant between the fitting and the firewall, the better to keep fumes out.

The fitting has a nice radius on the aft side, so it won't chafe my wires. I'm planning to bring all the heavy electrical wires through here, and possibly the Lightspeed ignition wires as well if the routing works out. The small-signal stuff will all go through a separate passthrough, to prevent inductively coupling noise from the power/ignition wires into the sensor leads.

There's a different and somewhat similar stainless firewall penetration kit sold by EPM-AV (whose site is unreachable at the time of this writing) which I actually bought before I decided to use the SafeAir kit instead. Here you can see that the EPM fitting is made of rolled and welded stainless sheet, instead of being a one-piece spun part like SafeAir has.

Call me crazy, but I just don't like the idea of having sharp edges near my wires. Add to this the fact that the SafeAir kit is more complete, uses a hole size that I already have a punch for, and is slightly cheaper, and I know which one is my favorite.

Finished fuel pump plumbing

November 4th, 2007

I ordered my fuel valve with built-in banjo fittings, with the idea that they would make it easier to route the fuel plumbing within the confines of the selector valve enclosure. Sure enough, it was very helpful to be able to make small adjustments to the angle of of the input lines. After I got everything lined up, I tightened the banjo fittings and safety-wired them in place. Banjo fittings will only pass fuel when the silver nut thing is rotated to a certain orientation relative to the flare fitting, so you don't want them to move around on their own.

Since the edges of the fuel pump mounting plate will be slightly visible where the carpet meets the spar, I decided to paint it to match the rest of the interior. This of course involved removing all the components, which I was going to do anyway. I also put a fresh coat of paint on the selector valve mounting plate, since it was a little bit dinged up. While the paint was drying, I blew out all the fuel lines and inspected the flares for FOD. Finally, I put everything back together and tightened each and every fitting.

I put a dab of torque seal on each fitting to remind myself that I did in fact tighten them, and also to be able to look for loose fittings during annual inspections.

I made a little cover for the selector valve shaft out of some dowel scrap, to keep it from poking me in the ribs when I'm crawling around inside the fuselage. I elected not to put the selector handle on just yet, since it's equally rib-pokey.

More fuel plumbing

October 27th, 2007

I ran the long fuel line that goes from the outlet of the pump up to the firewall:

I used a steel fitting through the firewall, since a flexible hose will connect to it on the forward side. I've decided to use only steel fittings on anything that carries important fluids and will see substantial vibration.

What a mess. The electric pump plumbing is insane-looking but it all fits. I did have to remake the line on the port side that feeds fuel into the selector valve, in order to clear some other plumbing. One other thing to note is that it's going to be very tricky to get wires routed between all this stuff and through the pre-drilled wiring holes in the spar (just barely visible behind the spaghetti).

Here's a view of the other side. Everything fits together, amazingly enough.

A view looking aft. None of this is permanently put together yet – I'm planning to take it all apart and blow the crud out of the lines before I tighten it all down for good.

Me doing science in the airplane laboratory: