More right elevator work

August 13th, 2005

Since I'm still letting the rudder trailing edge cure, I did some work on the right elevator today. Got the replacement counterweight and ribs from Van's and drilled them – they came out fine the second time. Then there was a certain amount of match-drilling elevator ribs and spar together, which was also uneventful.

The least straightforward job of the day was trimming the counterweight. They send you two identical lead counterweights, and you have to remove a big chunk from the one that goes into the right elevator, since it is lighter than its cousin on the left side (left elevator has a trim tab and associated hardware). Here is the "before" shot, with area to be trimmed marked off:

30 sweaty minutes later, here's the finished product. I first bored through it with a 1/4" drill to provide a nice radiused corner, then I attacked it with hacksaw and file until it reached this state. I was pretty wiped out by the end. Although it's soft, lead is a pain to cut or drill because it wants to grab drill bits and load up saw teeth.

Then I took everything apart, deburred, dimpled, and primed. That's a couple hours of tedious work that I didn't bother to snap photos of.

Proseal party!

August 9th, 2005

I think it's safe to say that no manganese dioxide-cured polysulfide sealant has destroyed more marriages than Proseal. Luckily Mary is still speaking to me after I convinced her to help me Proseal the rudder trailing edge tonight. What a mess. I'd forgotten how much I hate that stuff – an enmity I developed while working on the fuel tanks of my previous RV. Having an extra pair of hands around was a huge help, though. Mary is awesome and now I feel compelled to buy her something shiny.

This sucker will cure for a week before I take out the clecoes and put in the rivets. Note that a 48-count box of wooden clothespins from Dillon's yields exactly enough to help clamp down the trailing edge of an RV-7/9 rudder, plus one extra to put on your nose while you mix up the goop. Coincidence?

Rudder riveting

August 7th, 2005

Since I need to wait for replacement ribs to continue with the elevators, and I got my pneumatic squeezer back from being rebuilt at Clear Air Tools, I switched back to the rudder. Here the skeleton is coming together:

I used solid rivets to attach the rudder brace to the bottom rib, but I wasn't able to get any of my squeezer yokes inside the brace in order to squash the horn-to-brace rivets, so I used the optional LP4-3 blind rivets there. I could probably have used solid rivets if I'd ground down the top corner of my longeron yoke, but who cares.

The rudder counterweight is installed in its home with nuts and screws. I wonder why this weight is pre-drilled but the elevator ones aren't…?

Here the skins have been riveted to the spar.

Next step is the trailing edge, for which I obtained a big piece of 1/8" aluminum angle from the aviation department at Ace Hardware. Clamped to the rudder trailing edge, match-drilled, and held with a cleco in every hole, it will serve to keep the trailing edge perfectly straight while I glue it together and then rivet it.

But that will have to wait for another night since Mary wants to take me for walkies in the park.

Right elevator work

August 6th, 2005

This morning the right elevator skeleton started coming together:

Then the skin got clecoed on and match-drilled:

As did the elevator horn:

Oops! Here's the first mistake on the elevators. I followed the instructions and drilled through the counterweight into the E-703 and E-704 ribs, but the drill got off-center and the resulting holes in the rib flanges are too close to the edge for the nut that's supposed to fit there. I thought about elongating the holes, but decided against it. That means I get to buy a new counterweight and two new ribs on Monday.

Then I repeated the above steps for the left elevator, and it all turned out okay. So at least I don't have to redo the counterweight ribs on both elevators.

Bent the elevators

August 4th, 2005

Tonight I made a homebrew bending brake out of some 2×6 lumber and some door hinges, and used it to bend the elevator skins to their final shape.

When I had each one bent as far as it'd go with the bending brake, the open end of the skin was still bobbing in the air about an inch above the spar. Following the advice of those who've gone before me, I used hand seamers (cushioned with duct tape to avoid scratching up the skin) to gently squish along the trailing edge until the skin was resting on the spar.

I was a little worried about this whole process, but it turned out great and was a snap. Next stop looks like deburring and straightening a lot of ribs, so I think I'll quit while I'm ahead.